THE BALKANS

Day 1 | Thursday 11 June
Arrival in Thessaloniki – Byzantium’s Second City
Thessaloniki, once the second city of the Byzantine Empire, is the ideal starting point for our journey into the world of medieval ‘East Rome’. Founded in antiquity and transformed under imperial rule, the city stood at the frontier between empire and hinterland, a strategic and spiritual centre whose churches, mosaics and relics reflect the enduring vision of Byzantium. Though later shaped by Ottoman and modern layers, its Byzantine core remains palpable. After individual arrivals today, we gather at the hotel in the early evening for welcome drinks and introductions, followed by dinner in a nearby restaurant. Overnight Thessaloniki (D)

Day 2 | Friday 12 June
A Byzantine City through Time
We begin our exploration of Byzantium with a morning talk in the hotel, introducing the civilisation that shaped so much of the Balkans’ cultural and religious identity. Our walking tour of Thessaloniki then traces the city’s Roman and early Byzantine layers. We begin at the Roman Forum and the Arch of Galerius, before visiting the Rotunda – originally a mausoleum, later a church, and now a vivid canvas of early Christian mosaics. After a break for lunch, we continue to the Byzantine Museum, whose rich collections help contextualise the art, theology and ritual of the empire. We conclude our day at the monumental Church of Saint Demetrius, dedicated to the city’s patron saint and central to its religious life throughout the Byzantine period. Overnight Thessaloniki (B)

Day 3 | Saturday 13 June
The Legacy of Macedonia & the Rise of Byzantium
Today we travel into the Macedonian countryside to explore the ancient roots of empire. At Aigai (modern Vergina), once the royal capital of Macedon, we visit the monumental tombs of Philip II and his dynasty – figures whose political and dynastic legacy would echo into the Byzantine age. After lunch in a local taverna, we continue to Veria, whose Byzantine quarter preserves the religious life of a medieval Christian community. Here the 11th-century Cathedral of Christ and the 13th-century Church of the Resurrection reveal the continuity of Orthodox Christian life in the post-Roman world. A stroll through Barbouta, Veria’s Ottoman-era Jewish quarter, rounds out the day’s exploration of overlapping civilisations. The evening is at leisure on return to Thessaloniki. Overnight Thessaloniki (B, L)

Day 4 | Sunday 14 June
Late Byzantium
Our final day in Thessaloniki explores the city’s spiritual and artistic life in its last centuries under Byzantine rule. Following a morning talk we visit two outstanding monuments of this period. At the Church of Hagios Nikolaos Orphanos, we admire intimate 14th-century frescoes that reflect the mystical theology of Gregory Palamas, while the Church of the Holy Apostles, built just before the Ottoman conquest, reveals the artistic confidence of Byzantium’s final flowering. We then continue to Hosios David, a 5th-century monastery church renowned for its apse mosaic of Christ in Glory, one of the city’s most remarkable early Byzantine works. Finally, we ascend to the city’s 5th-century walls, where sweeping views take in the modern city, the Thermaic Gulf and distant Mount Olympus. The remainder of the day is at leisure, regrouping this evening for dinner together at a local restaurant. Overnight Thessaloniki (B, D)

Day 5 | Monday 15 June
Byzantine Ohrid – City of Saints & Scholars
Today we travel deeper into the cultural heartlands of the medieval Balkans. Departing Thessaloniki, we cross into North Macedonia and visit Heraclea Lyncestis, a Roman city that flourished into the early Byzantine period. Here we view its striking mosaics and remains of early Christian basilicas, which foreshadow the spiritual role this region would later play. We then continue through the Tikveš wine region, stopping for lunch at a local winery. En route to Ohrid, we pause for coffee in Bitola, an elegant town shaped by its Ottoman past, arriving at our lakeside hotel in the later afternoon. After time to freshen up we enjoy dinner together at a lakeside restaurant, taking in views that echo centuries of spiritual pilgrimage. Overnight Ohrid (B, L, D)

Day 6 | Tuesday 16 June
Ohrid – Byzantium & the Slavs
Ohrid’s sacred landscape embodies the spiritual and intellectual reach of Byzantium into the Slavic world. We begin the day with a morning lecture in our hotel introducing the city’s role as a centre of Orthodox learning, liturgy and sacred art before travelling to the city’s upper gate. Here we embark on a walking tour through the atmospheric upper town, with a visit to the Church of Saint Clement at Plaošnik, founded by the disciple of Saints Cyril and Methodius and later home to a medieval theological academy. We then ascend to the fortress of Tsar Samuel before descending to the clifftop Church of Saint John at Kaneo, one of the most iconic and picturesque sites in the Balkans. Lunch is then served on the outdoor terrace just beside the Church of Hagia Sophia. This monumental 11th-century basilica contains one of the finest collections of Byzantine frescoes in the Balkans, offering insight into the aesthetics and theology of Orthodox worship. Our final stop of the day is the Church of St Mary Perivleptos, whose luminous late 13th-century frescoes are considered masterpieces of the Palaiologan Renaissance, and the nearby ruins of a Roman theatre, later adapted for use in Christian times. The remainder of the evening is then at leisure to enjoy the town’s lakeside setting. Overnight Ohrid (B, L)

Day 7 | Wednesday 17 June
St Naum & the Sacred Lake
Today we explore the sacred geography of Lake Ohrid, long venerated in both pagan and Christian traditions. After a relaxed morning, we walk to the waterfront to embark on a private speedboat journey across the lake. En route, we pause at the reconstructed Bronze Age stilt village at the ‘Bay of Bones’ – a fascinating glimpse into prehistoric life on the lake. Our destination is the Monastery of Saint Naum, founded in the 10th century by one of the disciples of Saints Cyril and Methodius. The church, set near the source springs of the Drin River, contains vivid frescoes from the 16th and 18th centuries and the tomb of the saint himself. We conclude our journey with a floating lunch at the beautifully situated Restaurant Ostrovo, before returning to Ohrid in the late afternoon. Overnight Ohrid (B, L)

Day 8 | Thursday 18 June
Crossing to Kosovo – A Land of Layers
Kosovo, although one of Europe’s youngest nations, is a land steeped in deep historical and spiritual resonance. Once a heartland of medieval Serbia, it preserves some of the most important sites of the Serbian Orthodox tradition, set against the backdrop of a complex Ottoman, Yugoslav and post-war modern legacy. Departing Ohrid today, we trace this rich palimpsest as we journey from North Macedonia to Pristina, Kosovo’s vibrant capital. Our first stop en route is Skopje, where, after enjoying lunch together, we stroll through the atmospheric Old Bazaar and, before crossing the border into Kosovo, we pause at Gračanica Monastery – one of the region’s finest expressions of late medieval Serbian Orthodoxy. On arrival into Pristina, we visit the Folk Museum housed in a traditional Ottoman residence, and view civic landmarks including the Mother Teresa Cathedral and the striking Bill Clinton Monument. We conclude the day with dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight Pristina (B, L, D)

Day 9 | Friday 19 June
Byzantine Treasures of Kosovo
Kosovo preserves some of the finest medieval monuments in the Balkans. Built under royal patronage between the 13th and 14th centuries, these sites reflect a synthesis of Byzantine influence and local devotion that flourished on the empire’s western frontier. We begin the day with a morning lecture on medieval Serbia, followed by a visit to the Patriarchate of Peć, a secluded ensemble of red-domed chapels nestled beneath the Rugova Mountains. Once the spiritual heart of the Serbian Church, the complex features layered fresco cycles spanning five centuries. After a traditional lunch in the local bazaar, we then continue to the UNESCO World-Heritage listed Dečani Monastery, renowned for its imposing Romanesque-Byzantine architecture and its cycle of over 1,000 remarkably preserved frescoes. We continue to the charming town of Prizren, where we pause for coffee in the main square. We return to Pristina in the early evening where we plan to attend a local folk performance (schedules permitting). Overnight Pristina (B, L)

Day 10 | Saturday 20 June
Monasteries, Mountains & the Road to Sofia
Today we journey east into Bulgaria, following the old trans-Balkan routes once travelled by monks, merchants and pilgrims. As we leave Pristina behind, the landscape begins to shift, opening into high plains and wooded hills, where the borders of empires once converged. After crossing the border, we ascend into the forested Rila Mountains to visit Bulgaria’s most important monastic site – the Monastery of Saint Ivan of Rila. Founded in the 10th century and later rebuilt in the 19th, this UNESCO World-Heritage site combines natural majesty with rich spiritual heritage. We explore the colourful church, admire the frescoes of Zahari Zograf and enjoy lunch at the monastery restaurant before continuing the drive to Sofia, our base for the next four nights. After time to check-in, we enjoy dinner in a local restaurant. Overnight Sofia (B, L, D)

Day 11 | Sunday 21 June
Roman & Byzantine Sofia
Although a modern capital today, Sofia’s foundations lie deep in the Roman and Byzantine past. Once known as Serdica, it was a major administrative centre of the late Roman Empire and a city where Constantine the Great is believed to have declared, “Serdica is my Rome”. Our morning lecture sets the stage for today’s exploration of this multi-layered city, which begins with a walking tour of Sofia’s ancient heart. Highlights include the Serdica Archaeological Complex, the Western Gate of the ancient city and Saint George Rotunda – one of the best-preserved early Christian buildings in the Balkans. We conclude our tour at the National Archaeological Museum, home to a superb yet compact collection of artefacts from Thracian, Roman and medieval Bulgarian contexts. We then pause for lunch together in a nearby restaurant before our afternoon is spent exploring the monumental Church of Saint Sofia and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a dramatic symbol of Bulgaria’s Orthodox revival in the 19th century. This evening, we enjoy a performance (schedules permitting) of either Bulgarian folk music and dance or an opera. Overnight Sofia (B, L)

Day 12 | Monday 22 June
Sacred Vision – Boyana Church
On our final day in Sofia, we turn to one of the masterpieces of medieval Bulgarian art. Located on the wooded slopes of Mount Vitosha, the Boyana Church is a UNESCO World-Heritage site renowned for its remarkable 13th-century frescoes. These intimate, expressive portraits of saints, clergy and benefactors reveal the sophistication of Bulgarian religious painting on the eve of the Ottoman conquest and mark a high point of Orthodox artistic achievement beyond the Byzantine heartland. Our visit to Boyana is followed by a tour of the nearby National History Museum, which houses a wide-ranging collection that traces the story of Bulgaria from ancient Thrace through the medieval and modern eras. We return to Sofia by early afternoon, with the remainder of the day free for final exploration. Overnight Sofia (B)

Day 13 | Tuesday 23 June
Plovdiv – Roman Philippopolis
Today we journey south to Plovdiv, one of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited cities and a place where Roman, Byzantine and Bulgarian legacies converge. Known in antiquity as Philippopolis, the city flourished under Roman rule as a cultural and commercial centre before becoming a seat of early Christianity. We begin our walking tour at the Roman Forum, then continue to the remarkably preserved Roman Stadium and amphitheatre – testaments to Philippopolis’s importance as a provincial centre under Roman rule. From here we ascend into the Old Town, where cobbled lanes wind past 19th-century Bulgarian Revival mansions, to view the Thracian gold treasures found in the archaeological museum, including the world-famous Panagyurishte Treasure of exquisitely crafted vessels from the 4th–3rd century BCE. After lunch in a local restaurant, our next stop is the Episcopal Basilica of Philippopolis. Recently opened after an extensive conservation project, the basilica houses some of the most extensive and intricate Roman floor mosaics in the Balkans. On return to Sofia, the remainder of the evening is at leisure. Overnight Sofia (B, L)

Day 14 | Wednesday 24 June
To Niš – Constantine’s Legacy
Today we cross westward from Bulgaria into Serbia, journeying into one of the most historically resonant cities in the Balkans. Niš, birthplace of Constantine the Great, stands at the crossroads of empires and remains steeped in the memory of Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and modern struggles. As we travel, the landscape shifts from the wooded foothills of Mount Vitosha to the open valleys of eastern Serbia. Our first stop is the Pirot Women’s Weaving Collective, which preserves traditional Balkan textile techniques passed down through generations. We then continue to Niš, where we visit the chilling Skull Tower – a grim monument to the failed Serbian uprising of 1809, built by the Ottomans using the skulls of fallen rebels. After lunch at the nearby Malča winery, we arrive in Niš in time for a short orientation walk that introduces the Ottoman-era fortress and the city’s riverside centre. The evening is at leisure. Overnight Niš (B, L)

Day 15 | Thursday 25 June
Frontiers of Empire – From Galerius to the Danube
Today we travel through eastern Serbia along one of Europe’s most historically layered corridors, the Danube frontier. Once the edge of the Roman and later Byzantine worlds, this landscape is rich with imperial ambition. We depart early for Felix Romuliana, the spectacular palace-villa of Emperor Galerius, set amid rolling hills near the town of Zaječar. Built in the late 3rd century CE, this imperial complex features monumental gates, temples and mosaic pavements that reflect Galerius’s aspiration to rival Diocletian’s Split. After touring the site, we stop in nearby Zaječar to view additional finds from the palace in the local museum. From here we continue north to Tekija on the banks of the Danube, where we pause for lunch together before boarding speedboats for a scenic cruise through the Iron Gates – a dramatic gorge carved between the Carpathian and Balkan mountains. Disembarking at Donji Milanovac, we visit Lepenski Vir, a remarkable Mesolithic site whose architecture and sculpture provide rare insight into Europe’s prehistoric ritual culture. Our final stop is the imposing Golubac Fortress, guarding the entrance to the Iron Gates and once key to controlling movement along this strategic waterway. In the early evening we arrive in Belgrade. Overnight Belgrade (B, L)

Day 16 | Friday 26 June
Belgrade – Legacy & Reflection
This morning we have a wrap-up lecture in the hotel drawing together the themes and experiences of our journey and examining how Byzantium’s influence continues to shape the cultural and political landscape of the modern Balkans. We then set out on a walking tour of Belgrade’s historic core, beginning at the Belgrade Fortress, which commands the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers and reflects centuries of Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian occupation. From here we continue through Republic Square and along Kneza Mihaila, the city’s elegant pedestrian boulevard. After a break for lunch, we visit the recently renovated National Museum of Serbia, whose collection spans prehistoric artefacts, medieval Orthodox icons and key works of 19th- and 20th-century Balkan art. In the evening, we attend a performance (schedules permitting) of opera, ballet or a traditional folk show. Overnight Belgrade (B)

Day 17 | Saturday 27 June
Belgrade – Memory & Modernity
Our final day in Belgrade turns to the modern legacies that have shaped Serbia’s recent past. We begin with a visit to the House of Flowers, the mausoleum of Josip Broz Tito and part of the Museum of Yugoslavia. This complex offers a compelling insight into the ideals, contradictions and cultural mythology of the Yugoslav state, which sought to unify the diverse peoples of the Balkans in the 20th century. We then visit the monumental Saint Sava’s Cathedral, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world. Still under construction, the cathedral reflects a modern revival of national and religious identity, rooted in the Byzantine tradition, yet distinctly Serbian in its expression. The afternoon is free to relax or explore the city at your own pace, whether visiting galleries, strolling the riverside or enjoying Belgrade’s vibrant café scene. In the evening, we gather for a farewell dinner at the elegant Literature Club – an opportunity to reflect on the journey, the landscapes traversed, and the enduring cultural legacy of Byzantium in the Balkans. Overnight Belgrade (B, D)

Day 18 | Sunday 28 June
Departure or Continue to Romania
The tour concludes this morning with a coach transfer to Belgrade Airport to meet onward flights. For those joining the Romania extension, the journey continues from Belgrade Airport with a flight to Iași in the historical region of Moldavia. (B)