La Raya: Where Spain and Portugal meet
Marvao, Portugal
Iberian history could be viewed as a chronicle of two nations separated by a shared geography. These regions with their charming small towns that lie along the Hispano/Portugal border, the so called La Raya in Spanish (or A Raia in Portuguese), are some of the most spectacular and interesting to visit in both countries.
What exactly is La Raya or A Raia? These words, indeed nicknames, mean a line, a strip or a stripe and refer to the territories lying along a borderline separating Spain and Portugal; particularly those in the Spanish province of Extremadura and the neighbouring Portuguese regions of the Alentejo and the Central Beira.
This ‘line’ between the two countries stretches from north to south for 1292 km. It was established between the 12th and 14th centuries and is considered to be the oldest and longest borderline in Europe, remaining unchanged since that period. Throughout history this line has acted as a crossroads, a frontier fought over by competing peoples, empires and religions.
Although strictly speaking La Raya refers to the actual borderline itself, in a wider sense it includes the surrounding inland areas and their communities. Thus, it is not a border defined by its administrative function but refers to much wider geographical spaces with a spectacular and diverse array of landscapes and small towns with outstanding monuments reflecting the development of this border area defined by history, culture and language. These areas, while not necessarily close to the administrative line, are connected to it due to a history of conflict requiring key locations for defence and the establishment of settlements aimed at securing the territory, particularly from the viewpoint of the Portuguese.
Afonso I of Portugal
The creation of this borderline owes much to the vision and audacity of two Portuguese kings of the Medieval period, Afonso Henriques and Dinis, particularly the former, nicknamed the Conqueror, who initiated the separation of what was then the County of Portuscale from the Kingdom of León. After winning a series of battles, he then declared himself de facto King of the fledgling nation of Portugal. The nation was ratified when it gained independence in 1143 after the Treaty of Zamora was signed by Afonso Henriques and Alfonso VII, the King of Castille. However, it was not all wine and roses after that, since the Castilian threat was ever-present in the kingdom of Portugal over many centuries. Even today, the small town of Olivença (Olivenza in Spanish) on La Raya, is still disputed territory.
Olivença. Photo by Jesusccastillo
It was crucial for Portugal to equip the border regions with the hundreds of castles and fortresses that can still be seen today. These were vital in defending the nation and deterring possible invasions. King Dinis would be the monarch who spearheaded the fortification and settlement of the border areas with the assistance of religious orders such as the Cistercians, Knights Templar and Hospitallers. He also signed the Treaty of Alcañizes with Castille in 1297 that would define the enduring border of Portugal with Spain. This ancient territorial separation line was then structured over centuries by an urbanisation process around fortified urban nuclei, forming opposite pairs that ‘watched’ each other across the border; for example, the pairs of Valença/Tui, Almeida/Ciudad Rodrigo, Marvão/Valencia de Alcántara, Elvas/Badajoz. Until major treaties were signed, a kind of no man’s land existed that frequently acted as a sort of buffer zone that was continuously disputed economically by both parties and was often the trigger for small conflicts.
The Portuguese town of Valençae on the Miño River, facing the Spanish town of Tui
Although just specks on the world map, many villages with fortifications in Portugal, nestled strategically alongside La Raya, are a testament to the foresight of subsequent generations of monarchs committed to territorial defence and the development of the nation. Portugal boasts more than 200 castles and fortified structures: over 60 of these are situated along La Raya, many of which were built by the Knights Templar invited to Portugal in the 12th century by Afonso Enrique who granted them tracts of land to assist in settlement and defence. A few stand out in particular due to their strategic locations. Showcasing a sample of these in the Central Beira and Alentejo districts of Portugal gives some insight into the depth and breadth of this nation’s early cultural heritage.
In the Central Beira district, the Portuguese Government’s Directorate General for Cultural Heritage has listed a series of 12 medieval villages, known as the Aldeias Históricas, located in the Serra da Estrela Natural Park. Selected due to their particular historical features, the most interesting are Sortelha, Monsanto, and Belmonte.
The village of Sortelha, Portugal, and its castle
Sortelha is one of the best-preserved of the Historic Villages series and has an impressive castle. The town is set on an imposing granite massif at an elevation of 760m within a spectacular landscape overlooking Spain. Inhabited since the Neolithic Age, then occupied by Romans, Visigoths and Moors until the Christian Reconquest, it always had clear strategic advantages militarily. Due to its proximity to the Kingdom of Castile, it was considered essential to construct the castle and repopulate the town. Difficult to reach due to inaccessible cliffs on the southern flank meant that defence of the site against enemy attacks was easy. The impressive castle and keep overlooking the tiny town is integrated into the urban area that is totally encircled by a line of fortified walls. The castle still retains much of its original structure and from the top of its towers and walls there are outstanding views over the rugged Beira landscapes. All the houses are built of local granite with their foundations built into the rock following the irregularities of the terrain. Highlights include the entry gates to the town, the Facho Tower, the main church and bell tower, the Casa dos Falcões, the town hall and the Arab House.
The unique village of Monsanto, Portugal
Monsanto, the Mons Sanctus cited by Roman historians is probably the most famous village of the Historic Villages and is considered the “most Portuguese town” by the Portuguese. It is famous for its granite houses built in and around an area of gigantic boulders. The buildings are sandwiched between, on or under these boulders! The castle, built in 1171, is perched on the hill above the town and has enjoyed an important strategic position since prehistoric times. In the 12th-century, Afonso Enriques, the first King of Portugal, conquered Monsanto from the Moors. He then granted custody of the town to the Knights Templar, and it was the Grand Master of the Order of the Knights Templar, Gualdim Pais (responsible for the Convent of Christ in Tomar) who supervised the construction of the fortress incorporating the massive granite boulders into the structure.
The historic village of Belmonte, Portugal
Belmonte, whose name means either beautiful hill reflecting its location, or hill of war derived from belli monte, is located on the Portuguese Camino. The town hosts a series of interesting monuments and cultural connections. The 12th-century castle with an oval layout was built to consolidate the Eastern Border. After the frontier was defined with the signing of the Alcañices Treaty, this castle became part of a secondary line of defence and subsequently lost its military function. It was then donated to the important Cabral family, mayors of Belmonte, as their residence. Pedro Álvares Cabral the Portuguese navigator, credited with the discovery of Brazil, was born in the castle in 1467.
The nearby 13th-century Romanesque Church of Santiago is exquisite and includes the small Cabrais Chapel, the Pantheon of the Cabral family, built by Cabral's parents. Various family members are entombed here. Belmonte is equally famous for its connection to the Portuguese Jewish community and is, perhaps, the Portuguese town with the strongest Jewish presence. This community is unique in the Iberian Peninsula, since Jewish culture and traditions have lasted here since the early 13th century until today, hidden from the Portuguese inquisition and protected by the distant location of Belmonte. Today the interesting Jewish Museum can be visited as well as the Jewish quarter with its old synagogue.
Close to Belmonte is the enigmatic Roman Centum Cellas – standing alone on the plateau. Its purpose is the subject of many different interpretations: a temple, a prison, the praetorium of a Roman encampment, an inn, or a Roman villa.
The Centum Cellas Tower in Colmeal da Torre
The Alentejo region further south along La Raya from the Beiras also has many outstanding fortified settlements such as Evoramonte, Estremoz, Elvas, Monsaraz and Marim. However, it is the village of Marvão overlooking Spain that is the standout.
Marvão, Portugal, as seen from its castle
Marvão is a village, set high on a granite mountain top at an elevation of 850m and resembles a veritable walled eagle's nest. It lies very close to the Spanish border and is located at one of the highest and steepest points in the local mountain range of the Serra de São Mamede, making it a natural defence point with spectacular views of the surrounding landscape. Portuguese author José Saramago, Nobel Prize winner for Literature, said: From here, you can see the whole earth, almost immediately. The castle of Marvão is built on a rocky platform and is the archetype of medieval castle-construction. It was originally built by the Moors in the 9th century on the site of a Roman watchtower for the nearby Roman town of Ammaia and Bridge of Alcantara, then rebuilt by the young Portuguese nation in 1299 to discourage invasions by the Spanish.
Medieval castle in Marvão, Portugal
It encloses the medieval town inside its walls and is complete with a huge water cistern to collect rainwater to supply both the keep and the wider castle in the event of siege. In 1226 Marvão was one of the earliest towns on the eastern border to receive a Foral (Royal Charter) allowing the town to regulate its administration, borders and privileges.
Today La Raya is distant from the large cities of both countries and a poor transport infrastructure has ensured that these areas have remained quite isolated. As a result the borderlands with their exceptional characteristics are true hidden gems for the traveller who wants to avoid the main tourist hotspots. Adjectives such as “stunning”, “spectacular”, “outstanding” cannot really do justice to the magic of these places, their locations and histories. In this era of overtourism the sceptical traveller would be well rewarded by paying a visit.
IBERIAN BORDERLANDS
Eastern Portugal & Western Spain
On this new 14-day tour led by Dr Jeni Ryde, leave the Iberian tourist trail behind and discover the spectacular frontier lands of Eastern Portugal and Western Spain.
