Slovenia
History, Myth & Legend
Romans, Illyrian tribes, Attila the Hun, Habsburgs, Golden Fleeces, Argonauts and Dragons – Slovenia is a country which straddles history, myth and legend.
Slovenia also straddles four geographic and cultural (and gastronomic) regions, despite its small size; deep green alpine forests near the border with Austria, glittering karst and limestone caves that reach underground to northeast Italy, flat, humid Pannonian plains on the border with Hungary, and the turquoise Mediterranean next to Istrian Croatia. As Slovenians like to say, Slovenia is the only country where you can go skiing on a mountain range in the morning and swim in the Adriatic by the afternoon, traversing breathtakingly beautiful landscapes and experiencing a remarkably diverse culture.
The Alpine world
Soaring, snow-capped Julian Alps stretch like a chain starting from Italy, across crystal green rivers snaking through dense, thick evergreen forests and scattered medieval towns, many of which still proudly boast the barometers by which success was measured centuries ago – beautiful street scapes and church bell towers, framed by a local castle usually looming above a town or village.
Lake Bled
Perhaps the most famous town in the Alpine region is Bled. Locals still hold to their beloved legend that the tiny medieval Bell Towered Island in the middle of a pristine glacial lake, which undulates between turquoise and sapphire blue depending on the season, was created by fairies. It is a lively legend, and certainly, there is something fairy-tale-like as you feel the peace and quiet of the wooden Pletna boats rowing passengers to the island as they have done since the 16th century, the gentle chimes of the island’s bell tower of its medieval church echoing back to shore. Here the Alpine waters are home to native river trout, which the locals bake and serve whole, but perhaps most famous in Bled is its cream cake-Kremšnita – a triumph of puff pastry, dough, and cream, best enjoyed up at Bled Castle, perched rather dramatically on a cliff above the lake.
Kremšnita - vanilla and custard cream cake on Lake Bled
The castle’s history spans over a thousand years, pre-dating the Tower of London, and has withstood those who have sought to control it – from Slavic tribes and feudal Bishops to the most powerful emperors of the ages: Charlemagne and Napoleon.
Bled Castle
The castle, constructed and modified haphazardly over the centuries, now presents an eclectic blend of architectural styles and attractions: a small yet informative museum detailing the region’s history, as well as the charming 16th-century chapel, a wine cellar, a herbal gallery, and replica Gutenberg printing press which prints souvenirs for guests, all set against the stunning backdrop of the lake below and the mountains beyond.
Ljubljana
Between the Alpine and Karst regions lies the capital, Ljubljana, the heart of Slovenia. Ljubljana is rich in ancient legends, believed to have been founded by Jason, the famed Greek hero who captured the golden fleece from King Aeetes. Along with his crew of Argonauts, Jason navigated the Black Sea up the Danube and Sava rivers until they arrived at marshland of the Ljubljanica River where local townsmen told Jason of a fearsome dragon who plagued the country. As heroes of myth are often compelled to do, Jason slayed the dragon to the relief of the villagers, and whilst Jason returned to Greece, some of his crew decided to embrace their new home, becoming the supposed ‘first citizens of Ljubljana’.
Dragon Bridge, Ljubljana
In the 15th century, the dragon was resurrected, only to be slain once more, this time by Saint George, the patron saint of Ljubljana Castle. From its initial portrayal as a monster, the dragon gradually transformed into a symbolic city protector, embodying power, courage, and wisdom. Dragons have thus been present in Ljubljana since ancient times, and are found everywhere, in particular the Dragon Bridge, adorned with four large, winged creatures.
Ljubljana
Beyond dragons and heroes, Ljubljana boasts a rich history, beginning as an Illyrian, Celtic, and ancient Roman city, only to be destroyed by Attila the Hun in the 5th century CE. Rebuilt in the Middle Ages, the city emerged as the historical capital of the Carniola region, an important and strategic hub along trade routes connecting the Adriatic coast to the Danube, becoming a battleground between the Habsburgs, the Venetian Republic, and the Ottoman Empire. Weeping willows sway on both banks of the green Ljubljanica River, which still flows through the old town, nestled between pastel Baroque building facades. As you reach the centre of Ljubljana, you are greeted by the “Tromostovje,” or the Triple Bridge, a group of three limestone bridges that connect not only the two sides of the city but also link the historical, medieval town with the modern-day city.
Triple Bridge, Ljubljana
Between the riverbanks and the centuries of history, people convene in the many restaurants and taverns along the river, enjoying local wines to accompany their Kranjska sausage, rolled dumplings, or a selection of hard cheeses from the nearby mountain regions. On a rocky outcrop just above the city, the 900-year-old Ljubljana Castle dominates the landscape, having protected the populace from invaders (and dragons) for centuries. Thus, Ljubljana and its river continues to move at a gentle, unhurried pace.
Karst Region
Rivers have played a central part in our next region, carving through the rugged terrain of Slovenia’s rocky Karst region, a geological term which describes the limestone plateau that stretches down to the Bay of Trieste in Italy. It is a region of outstanding natural beauty, boasting thousands of vast underground limestone caves. Famed for its Karst prosciutto, which Slovenians will tell you is far superior to its Italian counterpart, it is paired with light-bodied Karst Teran red wine.
Predjama Castle
The most famous symbol of Slovenia' s Karst region is literally built into one of the largest karst caves in the country, where natural and man-made elements seamlessly join together – Predjama Castle. Within its five-storied interior is a mix of warm timbered halls, a grand Renaissance hall, suitably ominous dungeons, and naturally formed limestone tunnels that lead underground. The castle seems almost inspired by fantasy and in turn inspires modern day fantasy, having been featured in hugely successful television shows such as Game of Thrones and The Witcher.
The castle's history dates from the 12th century when it was built by the Patriarchs of Aquileia, who named it “Castle in front of the cave”, a title retained in modern Slovenian. In the 15th century, Predjama was owned by the Aquileian Erazam Jamski, the local version of Robin Hood, who fled to his castle after falling afoul of the Austrian Habsburgs. The Governor of Trieste laid siege to Predjama, hoping to starve Erazam out. Yet after a year, Erazam still had an unlimited supply of fresh food thanks to the secret cave tunnels under the castle used to replenish supplies, a point that was made by the populace throwing fresh cherries down at the armed forces. Steep grassy slopes lead up to the earthy ochre walls and the white and black emblazoned shutters that adorn the castle, a Gothic wonder and a testament to medieval engineering and construction melded into the steep cliff face of the karst cave that looms behind the castle.
Pannonian Plains
Heading east towards the border with Hungary, the karst caves and forests give way to wide valley basins, sandy dunes, and low, rolling hills of the Pannonian plains. Vineyards are in abundance, nestled in between endless fields of corn, with Golaž and Bograč, hearty meat stews, reflecting the Hungarian influence on the region.
It is a place of tradition, with Austrian Baroque churches co-existing with ancient pagan beliefs and festivals, such as the ‘Kurentovanje’ where young men, colourfully attired in lamb skins, bells, ribbons, and head masks with horns, chase away the winter in a cacophony of wonderfully vibrant spectacle.
Kurentovanje
Ptuj, the oldest town in Slovenia, epitomises this once-strong bond between ancient tribes and the land. Once called Poetovia, Ptuj has been a crossroads of civilisation, shaped since the Iron Age by Celts, Romans, Slavic Tribes, Franks, Habsburgs, the Archbishops of Salzburg and finally the counts of Styermark. A wander through the narrow stone streets takes you past ancient Roman ruins, and Dominican and Franciscan monasteries, complemented by building facades ablaze with dynamic colour schemes, from pink and bronze, ochre and blue, to lilac and forest green.
Ptuj
High above the ancient Roman ruins and onioned-domed building of the town sits Ptuj Castle, which dates from the 9th century, an eclectic blend of Renaissance and Baroque architecture. Changing hands over the centuries, the castle has defended the region, in particular from the Ottoman Empire during the Ottoman wars in Europe – and now houses a collection of "Turqueries" reflecting European interest in the Ottoman Empire. But even lovelier than the castle itself is the view from its ramparts, with the panoramic red terracotta roofs of the city below, along the banks of the Drava river, whose journey begins in the black forests of Germany, flowing through Slovenia on its way to the Black Sea.
Slovenian Adriatic
As you travel through the tunnel under the mountains toward the Adriatic, the bell towers of towns signal your approach to the shimmering Slovenian coastline, as the oxidised green onion-shaped domes and Austrian steeples yield to the striking white brick towers of the Venetian Renaissance. Nestled between the expansive shores of Italy and Croatia, Slovenia's small 47-kilometre strip of Adriatic coast is a balmy contrast to a mainland blanketed in dense foliage and towering mountains.
Piran on the Adriatic Sea
From the 13th century until the late 18th century, these Slovenian coastal towns and the entire Istrian Peninsula were part of the Republic of Venice before being caught in a tug-of-war between two major powers: Habsburg Austria and Napoleonic France. After World War I, the region became part of Italy before being restored to Slovenia, and although the deep-rooted heritage of these lost empires remains palpable, its main cities of Piran, Izola and Koper, showcase a stunning array of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Here you can enjoy Koper’s magnificent 54-metre-high, 15th-century Bell Tower and Venetian-styled Loggia, or wander along the shoreline of the sleepy seaside town of Izola, with its cheerful fishing boats.
The jewel of the coast is Piran, which sits on a peninsula, with narrow medieval streets that wind around the projecting land. Overlooking Piran is the famous Baroque Church of St. George, which houses rich 17th-centuryfrescoes and a Bell Tower modelled on San Marco’s Campanile in Venice. From here the Labyrinthine cobble streets all lead to the white-stoned Tartini Square, in the centre of the city around which are colourfully painted buildings in deep reds, pastel blues and shades of yellow, with their gothic arched windows and Juliette balconies.
Tartini Square, Piran
High above the city are its medieval stone walls, built to protect the once Venetian-ruled city from the Ottoman Empire. Centuries on, the walls still afford spectacular views over serpentine rows of terra cotta tiled rooftops fanning out over the peninsula towards the expansive Gulf of Trieste.
Italy is never far away, culturally or geographically, with Venice in the distance, just beyond our sight. Here you experience unique Slovenian coastal cuisine, forged by Mediterranean flavours and influenced by the vast Sečovlje Salt Pans along the coast, the famed Bora wind and terra rosa. Seafood is everything, and as the Slovenian saying goes, a fish must swim three times – in water, oil and wine – the latter used in the cooking, and alongside the meal, you can enjoy one of the excellent wines from the Primorska wine-growing region nearby.
Traditional Slovenian cuisine
Everything is on offer in Slovenia: ski in the Alpine region in the morning and swim in the Adriatic in the afternoon. But I don’t recommend it - Slovenia is not a country to be rushed, but rather savoured, each region, landmark, and dish at a time. Even after a decade of countless visits, it never fails to inspire and ignite the senses, its vibrant history evident in every corner – though perhaps only myth and legend can truly do justice to its creation.
SLOVENIA
THE CROSSROADS OF HISTORY
On this new 17-day tour led by Dr Lauren Mackay, venture on an historical and cultural journey as we wind our way through Slovenia – where the cultural, architectural, and culinary legacies of the Holy Roman Empire, the Ottomans, and Venetians intersect.
