LIVING UMBRIA

Day 1 | Tuesday 21 April
Arrive Rome - To Montefalco
The tour commences in the early afternoon at Rome’s Fiumicino Airport, where we will be met by tour leader Neil Moore, followed by a coach transfer to the Umbrian town of Montefalco. Once we have settled into our boutique accommodation in Palazzo Bontadosi, our home for the next nine days, we will enjoy an introductory talk followed by a welcome dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight Montefalco (D)

Day 2 | Weddnesday 22 April
The Balcony of Umbria
Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Vale of Umbria, the medieval town of Montefalco is regarded as the ‘Balcony of Umbria’ – thanks to its geographic position, where one can admire the surrounding cities of Perugia, Assisi, Spello, Foligno, Trevi, Spoleto, Gualdo Cattaneo and Bevagna. Montefalco was named in honour of the beloved hawks of Emperor Frederick II, the Duke of Swabia, a skilled expert in the art of falconry, and we begin our first day with a stroll through the olive groves and vineyards that surround the town, the latter producing Sagrantino, the ancient, tannic red wine for which Montefalco is famous. We then embark on a walking tour which takes us through its ancient walls, punctuated by medieval towers, as we wind our way through the picturesque streets of this unspoilt town, richly steeped in history. In the afternoon, we have a guided tour of the excellent local museum, housed in the former church of San Francesco. The museum is home to one of the masterpieces of Renaissance art – Benozzo Gozzoli’s Life of Saint Francis fresco cycle, painted in 1450. We return to our hotel where the rest of the afternoon is at leisure. Overnight Montefalco (B)

Day 3 | Thursday 23 April
Bevagna
Today begins with a leisurely drive through verdant countryside as we make our way to the private villa of Casa Gola near the medieval town of Bevagna. Here, we’ve the chance to live like a local, being treated to a private and exceptional cooking class in the home of our host, chef Luciana Cerbini. Our class will focus on preparing local dishes using seasonal, organic produce harvested from Luciana’s diverse vegetable garden. We’ll also learn about Casa Gola’s award-winning olive oils as we sample their distinct flavours. The experience culminates in a communal lunch, where we savour the dishes we’ve crafted. We then proceed to Bevagna, known by the ancient Etruscans as ‘Mefana’, a quintessential Umbrian village which once stood on the ancient consular road Flaminia, connecting Rome to the Adriatic Sea. The city is now famous for its medieval-themed “Gaete” festival, where citizens celebrate the lives of their ancestors by wearing medieval attire, cooking and eating the typical dishes of the time, and rediscovering ancient arts, trades and pastimes. Here we will enjoy a guided tour through the town’s magnificent piazza, considered to be one of the finest in Umbria, and there will also be time for a visit to a recreated medieval house in the vaults once supporting the Roman theatre, and a traditional water-powered paper-making mill where we witness how paper was actually produced in the Middle Ages. Returning to our hotel, the evening is at leisure. Overnight Montefalco (B, L)  

Day 4 | Friday 24 April
Neil Moore’s Tower house
This morning we make our way to Colle del Marchese, a charming and historic village situated on a hill that was once governed by the ancient city of Spoleto, a minor regional power that would have held sway over the Vale of Umbria, which stretches out to the north. This morning is devoted to Neil’s labour of love – the 13th-century castle tower with soaring panoramic views of rolling green hills and olive groves, which has been his home for the last 30 years. This exclusive private tour of the estate and surrounding village offers a priceless glimpse of local life in the region, as we hear about the history of the castle and the extensive work undertaken to preserve it. After the tour, we stop for lunch at an excellent local restaurant, after which we travel some fascinating backroads towards the Monti Martani – the gloriously verdant mountain range that encircles southern Umbria from Assisi to Spoleto. Tucked within the mountain range is the small medieval village of Giano dell’Umbria, with its lovely limestone circular gated walls and urban structure spiral. It is here that we will have a chance to view a true natural treasure, the ‘Olivo Secolare di Macciano’. This monumental olive tree, with a trunk measuring over 2.5 metres, is estimated to be over 1,000 years old. Returning to our hotel, the evening is at leisure. Overnight Montefalco (B, L)

Day 5 | Saturday 25 April
A Roman Ghost Town
Umbria is famous for its “ghost towns”, once thriving ancient and medieval centres that are now sparsely populated or entirely abandoned due to natural disasters, migration and the decline of traditional industries. Nevertheless, they offer a captivating glimpse into Umbria’s past, and today we visit one of the region’s most significant cities, Carsulae. Situated on the slopes of the Monti Martani, along the consular road of via Flamina (which formed the central axis of the city), we enter through the Arch of San Damiano into the Roman Forum. Here we will explore the preserved archaeological area and the remains of public monuments, from the perfectly preserved stone remains and the city walls, where numerous monuments testify to the presence of important burials, such as the imposing funerary construction likely belonging to one of the city’s most influential families. After our tour, we will enjoy lunch together at a restaurant in the nearby hill town of San Gemini. We return to our hotel, where the afternoon is at leisure. Overnight Montefalco (B, L)

Day 6 | Sunday 26 April
Charcoal Burning
This morning we drive towards the commune of Gualdo Cattaneo, an important part of Umbria’s cultural heritage which boasts 1,000 year history, once under the control of the infamous Rodrigo Borgia, Pope Alexander VI, who commissioned the military fortifications and defensive walls that are largely intact today. Within this hamlet also lies Pomonte, a village with an ancient history and our destination for the day. Here, the centuries-old tradition of Carbonari, or charcoal burning, has been passed down through generations. We visit the family of one of the last surviving members of the charcoal burning fraternity, where we’ll learn about this ancient cooking technique and the unique properties of pomonte charcoal, as well as the delicate aromas it imparts to the dishes it’s used to cook. If the weather permits, we’ll then witness a traditional burning followed by a delicious barbecue lunch on the family’s estate. We return to our hotel in the afternoon where the evening is at leisure. Overnight Montefalco (B, L)

Day 7 | Monday 27 April
Truffles in the Sacred Forest
Today, we devote the morning to nature and the outdoors, taking a winding road through dense forest to the Sacro Bosco, or Sacred Wood. Our first stop is the hamlet of Monteluco, where we explore the layers of religious history – from its origins as a place of worship dedicated to Jupiter, to its time as a retreat for anchorite monks, and finally its transformation into a Franciscan hermitage. Umbria is also the heart of truffle production in Italy, and we continue on to the village of Patrico where we will be treated to a demonstration of truffle hunting, followed by a rustic lunch in this isolated hamlet high in the Appenine mountain range. In the afternoon, we descend to Spoleto, a captivating town with a fascinating history. Spoleto played a crucial role in the Second Punic War in repelling the famed Carthaginian General Hannibal in 217 BC. Centuries later, during the Middle Ages, Spoleto became a minor regional powe and we arrive in the town via its colossal ten-arched bridge, the Ponte delle Torri, for a guided tour of the charming medieval streets. Our tour leads us through Spoleto’s atmospheric stone lanes and picturesque piazzas, taking in architectural treasures such as the Rocca Albornoziana, a commanding fortress that once guarded the town, and the magnificent Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. Returning to our hotel, the evening is at leisure. Overnight Montefalco (B, L)

Day 8 | Tuesday 28 April
San Giacomo & Foligno
Today we journey through the north of Spoleto to the hamlet of San Giacomo, once a garrison fort and horse change on the old Via Flaminia. Here we have a chance to visit the Church of San Giacomo, home to one of the Renaissance’s least-known major fresco cycles, incidents from the life of Saint James by local artist Giovanni di Pietro, known as Lo Spagna. We then proceed to the green oasis and village of Campello sul Clitunno for a special visit to a local-run biological farm, where we have the opportunity to observe the region’s farming life.  After pausing for lunch together, we then proceed to our final destination of the day – Foligno, the Vale of Umbria’s largest town, quite distinct from the classic Umbrian hillside village. Founded before 1000 BCE, it was originally situated near what was once Fulginia, a small Roman-controlled town in the early 3rd century. The city is a network of winding streets and smaller squares, forming the outer ring of the city behind the neat rows of main buildings which began to develop between the 11th and 12th centuries, and we visit the heart of the city – the Piazza della Repubblica, home to the main civic and religious buildings, including the Palazzo Trinci. The rest of the evening is at leisure. Overnight Montefalco. (B, L)

Day 9 | Friday 29 April
The Artist’s Studio
This morning we return to Neil’s castle home for the day, beginning with a special introduction to the foraging of edible plants in the fields near Colle del Marchese with neighbour and long-term friend of the family, Carla, whose skills have been passed down through the generations. This is followed by a masterclass with Neil on the oil painting techniques which he uses in his own work, alongside a delicious and locally sourced light lunch prepared by Carla and her mother. In the early afternoon, Neil will then give a demonstration of printing from etching plates, most of which have been made using copper prepared with a conventional hard ground and etched in ferric perchloric acid. This technique has always been Neil’s principal form of expression, and the demonstration will take place on his own printing press. We then return to our hotel where the evening is at leisure. Overnight Montefalco (B, L)

Day 10 | Thursday 30 April
Todi on the Tiber
En route to our afternoon destination of Orvieto, we stop in the small Etruscan town of Todi, perched atop a cliff overlooking the River Tiber and sitting at a crossroads – halfway between Orvieto and Spoleto. Here, we have a guided tour of the town, winding our way through the streets to view its historic sights, from the stunning Piazza del Popolo to its Romanesque–Gothic Cathedral. There will be free time for lunch, during which one must try the local cuisine – wild boar stew – before we follow the Tiber through impressive gorges to our final destination, Orvieto – one of the most striking towns in Umbria. Situated at the heart of the city in the medieval quarter is the Palazzo Piccolomini, which dates back to the 16th century and will form our base for the next four nights. After checking in, there will be a short orientation walk followed by a dinner at an excellent restaurant nearby. Overnight Orvieto (B, D)

Day 11 | Friday 1 May
Etruscan Orvieto
Sitting majestically high above the valley floor, atop a large portion of volcanic stone overlooking cypress-dotted Umbrian plains, the quintessential Italian Hill town of Orvieto is older than Rome and was once the cultural and religious centre of the ancient Etruscans, as well as a number of Popes throughout the Middle Ages. We begin our day with a guided tour of this impressive city, tracing its charming cobblestone streets, still adorned with preserved medieval buildings. We will also visit the magnificent Duomo, known as the ‘Golden Lily’ of cathedrals for its golden mosaics that illuminate the splendid façade. It is also home to the masterpiece of Renaissance painter Luca Signorelli, whose magnificent frescoes deal with themes of resurrection and salvation, and reflect the turbulent political and religious atmosphere of Italy in the late 15th century. Following a lunch with a splendid view of Piazza Duomo, we then embark on a guided tour of Orvieto’s underground city, its tunnels and chambers carved from the soft volcanic tuff during the Etruscan period, creating a network that connected the city’s fortress to the outside world. The rest of the day is at leisure, and for those who wish to learn more about Etruscan culture, there is an optional visit to the National Archaeological Museum. Overnight Orvieto (B, L)

Day 12 | Saturday 2 May
A Park of Monsters
With its rich cultural heritage, the Lazio region has been at the centre of numerous historical periods, including the Etruscan civilisation, Roman Republic and Empire, Papal States, the Kingdom of Italy and the Italian Republic. This morning, we’ll take a walking tour of one of the region’s lesser-known cities – Viterbo. Known as the ‘City of the Popes’, Viterbo blends traces of the Etruscan civilisation with medieval architecture, from its aristocratic palaces in Piazza del Plebiscito, the elegant medieval streetscapes of the San Pellegrino district, to its magnificent Papal and Priori Palaces and Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo. We then stop for lunch together in the lovely commune of Bagnaia before heading to the neighbouring town of Bomarzo. Here we will visit the ‘Parco dei Mostri’ or Garden of Monsters. The park features fascinating and otherworldly sculptures created in the 16th century by Pier Francesco Orsini. The garden’s layout is anything but symmetrical, unlike other Renaissance gardens, and the art was crafted in a rough Mannerist style, a 16th-century precursor to Surrealism. Returning to our hotel, the evening is at leisure. Overnight Orvieto (B, L)

Day 13 | Sunday 3 May
Bagnoregio & Bolsena
This morning we make our way to Civita di Bagnoregio, a fairytale village perched atop a crest rising high above a vast canyon ruled by wind and erosion, and considered to be one of the most beautiful villages in all of Italy. The saddle of earth that once connected Civita to its larger and busier sister town, Bagnoregio, has worn away, and today the only way in or out is by a footbridge through the main entrance – a towering stone passageway, carved by the Etruscans 2,500 years ago and decorated in the 12th century with a Romanesque arch. Within its walls, the maze of alleys spreads from the central square, all leading to balconies and terraces that open onto the splendid panorama of the Valle dei Calanchi. Next, we head to Lake Bolsena, Europe’s largest crater lake, whose volcanic eruptions from 750,000 years ago have shaped the geology of this region. Now a peaceful and idyllic place, we enjoy a boat trip on the lake before enjoying a final farewell lunch along the shoreline. In the afternoon, we pay a short visit to the town centre of Bolsena before returning to our hotel in Orvieto, where our final evening is at leisure. Overnight Orvieto (B, L)

Day 14 | Monday 4 May
Depart to Rome
The tour ends this morning after breakfast. There will be a group transfer to Rome’s Fiumicino Airport, arriving in time to meet departing flights. (B)